That image will be the first line of the writing that I feel compelled to do about this trip, because that is what you do if you are an English teacher who travels to London in the summer: you write poetry or blog posts about it. You notice things, you put them down. Without judgment, without making any sort of point - not yet, at least. That can come later. Which I am thankful for, because right now I don’t know whether I love or hate the idea that western capitalism seems to be prevailing over religious tradition, because I am skeptical of them both.
Churches are beautiful, though, and I am proud that I can appreciate their beauty despite not believing in God. I can walk into any church or mosque or temple and be the very picture of respect, of deference, of piety. Anyone who saw me could mistake me for a devout believer. I keep my irreverence inside my head: my secret. I am good at keeping secrets.
I think about something an old friend once told me: when she was a child and they told her she would go to hell if she didn’t believe in God, her first instinct was to panic about the idea of hell. Mine would have been to insist, even to myself: but I do believe.
I am in London mostly because of Virginia Woolf - because I want to see the places that Mrs. Dalloway would have seen when she went to buy the flowers, because I long to be as self-aware and thoughtful as one of her characters - but also because of J.K. Rowling and Douglas Adams. I am here because, five years ago, one summer evening driving through my hometown of Derry, New Hampshire, seeing the sunset over a field on Island Pond Road, I was struck by the thought: I can’t die without seeing England. I am here because I needed something to do this summer, something to stave off the boredom and purposelessness that inevitably hits when the school year ends, no matter how much I was looking forward to it.
I am also here to prove to myself and to them (a protean group that includes friends past and present, family members, students, co-workers) that I am the type of person who can just decide to do something and then do it - on my own, without consulting a guidebook or the Internet.
It is my first day here. Tuesday, June 26th. Probably somewhere around 8 PM, although I am deliberately not paying too much attention to the time. My phone is off in my pocket.
In another performance of anti-racism, I decide follow a middle-eastern man and what I assume are his three wives (covered in black, except their eyes) to a Lebanese restaurant. (I was overwhelmed by all the options I had for dinner, anyway, as I always am, because everything looks equally appealing.) This is a story I can tell when I get back. It will make me seem cultured, adventurous, brave. It will impress the people who are already a little impressed that I went in the first place. (I am still amazed that it actually happened, that my game has somehow become real.) And hopefully, it will get them to think: I would never do that.
I think of the myth of “no-go zones” and how, if I believed in them, I could interpret the waiter’s coldness towards me as racial, but I choose to think he is just going through the motions of his job.
I order the chicken and lamb shawarma, and hummus and pita bread, and I think it is some of the best food I have ever eaten. I take a picture of it all to supplement the story. I haven’t eaten all day - not since around nine that morning, sitting on the ground outside Stansted airport, functioning on hardly any sleep (I can’t sleep on a plane, can’t sleep sitting up, not even with a pillow it turns out, and especially not when the guy two seats away won’t shut up about jazz, making me think I really need to finish writing that piece about jazz), when I ate some leftover cereal out of its plastic bag, mixed it with some yogurt and a black iced coffee (Americano, they call it here) - right before calling my bank to try and figure out why I was getting an error message at the ATM and then getting in trouble with the authorities for leaving my luggage unattended for just a couple of seconds while I tried to juggle the phone (which was close to dying) and my train ticket and the little bit of British money I had managed to secure so far - sorting that out, catching the train to central London, navigating the Underground, getting myself to the Victoria stop, stopping at Subway for a bottle of water, dragging my luggage (my bag losing a wheel somewhere along the way) through Hyde Park to the Astor Kensington (chosen because it was near the house where Virginia Woolf lived as a child), finding out I foolishly had reserved it for the wrong night, going down into the kitchen to reserve a couple nights at the other hostel I had considered booking, dragging my stuff back across Hyde Park, thinking well, it certainly is summer here - getting checked in, settling into my bottom bunk in that tiny but immaculate room (they would never stay in a hostel, they would never be this open-to-experience and willing to endure inconvenience) - taking a cold shower, then venturing back out, carrying a couple of books (Call Me By Your Name is one of them, the one I am in the middle of), a notebook, and a pen in the SAU7 bag that must have been a teachers’ appreciation week gift.
The past twenty-four hours have been a whirlwind, a roller-coaster ride, spent in alternating states of stress and exuberance. But that’s exactly what I will want it to have been like. I don’t want everything to have been simple and perfect and easy. I want an interesting experience, a rich one, one that I can look back on and say I did all that. I want to have struggled. The struggle is part of it, which is what "they" (whatever that means) don’t understand.
I eat everything on my plate at the restaurant, including what is clearly meant to be a shared portion of hummus, mixing it all together towards the end of the meal. I like the idea of mixing food together lately. It’s a political statement about multiculturalism, maybe, or a way of identifying with my mother over my father (who likes everything kept separate). And it is part of my social identity to always finish what I order, though I don’t attach any real symbolic significance to that.
I walk back to the hostel, sit in the lounge area, try to make conversation with the other people sitting there. I want to meet interesting people, forge connections, learn random facts about different countries that I can take back with me and always preface with “I heard from this German girl who I met in London . . .” I long for the youth hostel experience. But it becomes clear that it isn’t happening, not tonight. Everybody’s tired, on their phones, or doesn’t speak English.
I go to bed but have trouble sleeping. At one point, I wake up, figuring that it must be close to morning and I can probably justify getting up soon. I check my phone - it’s just after midnight.
I am in London mostly because of Virginia Woolf - because I want to see the places that Mrs. Dalloway would have seen when she went to buy the flowers, because I long to be as self-aware and thoughtful as one of her characters - but also because of J.K. Rowling and Douglas Adams. I am here because, five years ago, one summer evening driving through my hometown of Derry, New Hampshire, seeing the sunset over a field on Island Pond Road, I was struck by the thought: I can’t die without seeing England. I am here because I needed something to do this summer, something to stave off the boredom and purposelessness that inevitably hits when the school year ends, no matter how much I was looking forward to it.
I am also here to prove to myself and to them (a protean group that includes friends past and present, family members, students, co-workers) that I am the type of person who can just decide to do something and then do it - on my own, without consulting a guidebook or the Internet.
It is my first day here. Tuesday, June 26th. Probably somewhere around 8 PM, although I am deliberately not paying too much attention to the time. My phone is off in my pocket.
In another performance of anti-racism, I decide follow a middle-eastern man and what I assume are his three wives (covered in black, except their eyes) to a Lebanese restaurant. (I was overwhelmed by all the options I had for dinner, anyway, as I always am, because everything looks equally appealing.) This is a story I can tell when I get back. It will make me seem cultured, adventurous, brave. It will impress the people who are already a little impressed that I went in the first place. (I am still amazed that it actually happened, that my game has somehow become real.) And hopefully, it will get them to think: I would never do that.
I think of the myth of “no-go zones” and how, if I believed in them, I could interpret the waiter’s coldness towards me as racial, but I choose to think he is just going through the motions of his job.
I order the chicken and lamb shawarma, and hummus and pita bread, and I think it is some of the best food I have ever eaten. I take a picture of it all to supplement the story. I haven’t eaten all day - not since around nine that morning, sitting on the ground outside Stansted airport, functioning on hardly any sleep (I can’t sleep on a plane, can’t sleep sitting up, not even with a pillow it turns out, and especially not when the guy two seats away won’t shut up about jazz, making me think I really need to finish writing that piece about jazz), when I ate some leftover cereal out of its plastic bag, mixed it with some yogurt and a black iced coffee (Americano, they call it here) - right before calling my bank to try and figure out why I was getting an error message at the ATM and then getting in trouble with the authorities for leaving my luggage unattended for just a couple of seconds while I tried to juggle the phone (which was close to dying) and my train ticket and the little bit of British money I had managed to secure so far - sorting that out, catching the train to central London, navigating the Underground, getting myself to the Victoria stop, stopping at Subway for a bottle of water, dragging my luggage (my bag losing a wheel somewhere along the way) through Hyde Park to the Astor Kensington (chosen because it was near the house where Virginia Woolf lived as a child), finding out I foolishly had reserved it for the wrong night, going down into the kitchen to reserve a couple nights at the other hostel I had considered booking, dragging my stuff back across Hyde Park, thinking well, it certainly is summer here - getting checked in, settling into my bottom bunk in that tiny but immaculate room (they would never stay in a hostel, they would never be this open-to-experience and willing to endure inconvenience) - taking a cold shower, then venturing back out, carrying a couple of books (Call Me By Your Name is one of them, the one I am in the middle of), a notebook, and a pen in the SAU7 bag that must have been a teachers’ appreciation week gift.
The past twenty-four hours have been a whirlwind, a roller-coaster ride, spent in alternating states of stress and exuberance. But that’s exactly what I will want it to have been like. I don’t want everything to have been simple and perfect and easy. I want an interesting experience, a rich one, one that I can look back on and say I did all that. I want to have struggled. The struggle is part of it, which is what "they" (whatever that means) don’t understand.
I eat everything on my plate at the restaurant, including what is clearly meant to be a shared portion of hummus, mixing it all together towards the end of the meal. I like the idea of mixing food together lately. It’s a political statement about multiculturalism, maybe, or a way of identifying with my mother over my father (who likes everything kept separate). And it is part of my social identity to always finish what I order, though I don’t attach any real symbolic significance to that.
I walk back to the hostel, sit in the lounge area, try to make conversation with the other people sitting there. I want to meet interesting people, forge connections, learn random facts about different countries that I can take back with me and always preface with “I heard from this German girl who I met in London . . .” I long for the youth hostel experience. But it becomes clear that it isn’t happening, not tonight. Everybody’s tired, on their phones, or doesn’t speak English.
I go to bed but have trouble sleeping. At one point, I wake up, figuring that it must be close to morning and I can probably justify getting up soon. I check my phone - it’s just after midnight.
The girl sleeping above me is Chinese.
In the morning, they have breakfast in the kitchen for a one-pound "donation." I drink coffee, eat cereal, and make a couple of pieces of toast with jelly. Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday mornings are all identical in this regard. I watch the local news. They talk about the heat wave, the fires in northern England, the World Cup. I talk to a guy from Canada and a girl from Australia one morning. I can name four cities in Australia, which impresses her.
In the morning, they have breakfast in the kitchen for a one-pound "donation." I drink coffee, eat cereal, and make a couple of pieces of toast with jelly. Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday mornings are all identical in this regard. I watch the local news. They talk about the heat wave, the fires in northern England, the World Cup. I talk to a guy from Canada and a girl from Australia one morning. I can name four cities in Australia, which impresses her.
I ask another girl, who is reading Norwegian Wood by Murakami, if it’s any good. (I always look to see what books people are reading, but I usually never say anything.) She says it is. I tell her I saw it in a bookstore the other day, and that I’ve read Kafka on the Shore. The truth is I liked it but didn’t love it, but Murakami is trendy and connotes intelligence.
I write random thoughts, ideas, and impressions in my notebook.
I explore the city. I think the phrase “the Oyster is my world” but mostly I walk. When I do take the bus or the train, I tap the Oyster card against the reader quickly, efficiently, almost like I am bored by it, so that no one will think I am anything but a local. Sometimes I say “excuse me” in a British accent. I imagine myself as Clarissa Dalloway or Septimus Smith or Dirk Gently. Or Bernard from The Waves, who traveled to Rome for ten days and wanted everyone to say “Bernard is in Rome for ten days.”
I explore the city. I think the phrase “the Oyster is my world” but mostly I walk. When I do take the bus or the train, I tap the Oyster card against the reader quickly, efficiently, almost like I am bored by it, so that no one will think I am anything but a local. Sometimes I say “excuse me” in a British accent. I imagine myself as Clarissa Dalloway or Septimus Smith or Dirk Gently. Or Bernard from The Waves, who traveled to Rome for ten days and wanted everyone to say “Bernard is in Rome for ten days.”
London is my Rome.
I see other tourists taking pictures - posing for Instagram or Facebook, or taking snapshots of all the Important Places without looking at them, like they’re in a scavenger hunt - and I want to criticize them for it, to mock them. So sometimes I refuse to take any pictures. Last year when I went to Niagara Falls I didn’t take any pictures, deliberately, because it seemed like every image could make just as perfect of a picture as any other, and I wanted to make a statement about living in the moment, living aesthetically. Taking pictures provides the illusion that you can preserve the moment. That you can make something permanent out of something fleeting.
But then again, so does writing about it.
And I do take plenty of pictures, because I am nothing if not inconsistent. Life is about compromise, I say to justify it. It’s about living with the ambiguity of never knowing for sure what the right thing to do is. It’s about being part of the culture and a little bit removed from it at the same time. It’s about humility and not being so uptight and self-righteous all the time. So I take a picture of myself in front of Westminster Abbey, which is beautiful, and post it to Facebook so that everyone can see that I am really here. I am wearing a button-down, short-sleeve orange shirt, which is okay because I have not posted a picture wearing that shirt before. Once you post a picture wearing a shirt, you can’t help but see the picture every time you see the shirt. It changes things, irrevocably.
I go to the Important Places, because they are the Important Places, and it’s just as worthwhile to have a lackluster experience in an Important Place as it is to have an Important Experience in a insignificant place. An existential crisis at a strip mall or a fast-food restaurant. What matters are the particulars, the specifics. Acknowledge the truth of what your experience was really like.
And so:
I walk through Regent’s Park. I see a bridge over a stream that reminds me of something I could have dreamed as a young child. I try to visit Regent’s College but it’s all fenced in, all locked up. I think of how I could have come here to study abroad junior year, but instead decided to stay at home with my dad after the divorce and keep him company, get a job making sandwiches, go with him to bars where middle-aged women danced to cover bands playing 90's music. I imagine the life I could have had for a couple of months, and know I would have been homesick.
On Primrose Hill, I read the line by William Blake that is carved into the stone. I remember him being mentioned in some British Lit class I took (though whether it was high school or college, I can’t remember) because he wrote about Innocence and Experience, and so, I thought at the time, did I. Tiger, tiger, burning bright. That was featured on some TV show, some crime show. The Mentalist, it might have been. I remember I used it to watch on Tuesday nights after getting home from very long days (Tuesdays were inventory nights at Subway, where I counted every item in the store, my responsibility as assistant manager) and pretend I was all the characters at once.
I visit the Harry Potter gift shop in King’s Cross and want to buy absolutely everything (the really childish part of me even wants a wand), but settle for just a postcard and a pen. I send one picture to my mom, one picture to Peter. I think about how I never went to a midnight premiere for any of the books or the movies, even though I wanted to go so badly and would think about it all day and night. But I wouldn’t ask. I would sit around and hope, pray, wish that someone else would bring it up, would tell me they were bringing me. Because if I asked, then the answer could be no. I have a brief conversation with an American guy about my age, whose girlfriend isn’t into Harry Potter, about the wait between Goblet of Fire and Order of the Phoenix. I mention how I rationed the pages of the former when it came out, only let myself read seventy a day (though sometimes I cheated.) He says he devoured the entire thing in one day.
I see other tourists taking pictures - posing for Instagram or Facebook, or taking snapshots of all the Important Places without looking at them, like they’re in a scavenger hunt - and I want to criticize them for it, to mock them. So sometimes I refuse to take any pictures. Last year when I went to Niagara Falls I didn’t take any pictures, deliberately, because it seemed like every image could make just as perfect of a picture as any other, and I wanted to make a statement about living in the moment, living aesthetically. Taking pictures provides the illusion that you can preserve the moment. That you can make something permanent out of something fleeting.
But then again, so does writing about it.
And I do take plenty of pictures, because I am nothing if not inconsistent. Life is about compromise, I say to justify it. It’s about living with the ambiguity of never knowing for sure what the right thing to do is. It’s about being part of the culture and a little bit removed from it at the same time. It’s about humility and not being so uptight and self-righteous all the time. So I take a picture of myself in front of Westminster Abbey, which is beautiful, and post it to Facebook so that everyone can see that I am really here. I am wearing a button-down, short-sleeve orange shirt, which is okay because I have not posted a picture wearing that shirt before. Once you post a picture wearing a shirt, you can’t help but see the picture every time you see the shirt. It changes things, irrevocably.
I go to the Important Places, because they are the Important Places, and it’s just as worthwhile to have a lackluster experience in an Important Place as it is to have an Important Experience in a insignificant place. An existential crisis at a strip mall or a fast-food restaurant. What matters are the particulars, the specifics. Acknowledge the truth of what your experience was really like.
And so:
I walk through Regent’s Park. I see a bridge over a stream that reminds me of something I could have dreamed as a young child. I try to visit Regent’s College but it’s all fenced in, all locked up. I think of how I could have come here to study abroad junior year, but instead decided to stay at home with my dad after the divorce and keep him company, get a job making sandwiches, go with him to bars where middle-aged women danced to cover bands playing 90's music. I imagine the life I could have had for a couple of months, and know I would have been homesick.
On Primrose Hill, I read the line by William Blake that is carved into the stone. I remember him being mentioned in some British Lit class I took (though whether it was high school or college, I can’t remember) because he wrote about Innocence and Experience, and so, I thought at the time, did I. Tiger, tiger, burning bright. That was featured on some TV show, some crime show. The Mentalist, it might have been. I remember I used it to watch on Tuesday nights after getting home from very long days (Tuesdays were inventory nights at Subway, where I counted every item in the store, my responsibility as assistant manager) and pretend I was all the characters at once.
I visit the Harry Potter gift shop in King’s Cross and want to buy absolutely everything (the really childish part of me even wants a wand), but settle for just a postcard and a pen. I send one picture to my mom, one picture to Peter. I think about how I never went to a midnight premiere for any of the books or the movies, even though I wanted to go so badly and would think about it all day and night. But I wouldn’t ask. I would sit around and hope, pray, wish that someone else would bring it up, would tell me they were bringing me. Because if I asked, then the answer could be no. I have a brief conversation with an American guy about my age, whose girlfriend isn’t into Harry Potter, about the wait between Goblet of Fire and Order of the Phoenix. I mention how I rationed the pages of the former when it came out, only let myself read seventy a day (though sometimes I cheated.) He says he devoured the entire thing in one day.
Both are signs of love.
I eat lunch at an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad-buffet at the second floor of Victoria station, and learn that Anthony Kennedy is retiring from the Supreme Court.
I go to Abbey Road even though I don’t really like the Beatles that much, because it’s so iconic. I see two people nearly get hit by cars while posing for pictures on the crosswalk, which is really just a regular crosswalk. Or it was. Or it could be.
I listen to a Taylor Swift album on the bus to the John Keats house in Hampstead. (The street I grew up on was Shelley, and there was one nearby called Keats. The main road you take to get to our little neighborhood was Hampstead Road.) But Camden is bustling, so I get off there and walk the rest of the way. In the Keats house, I read random lines of his poetry, hoping that one of them will stick, so that I will always remember that I read it in his house. I marvel at the fact that he was younger than me when he died. I need to write something, I think for the millionth time. I wish I was the type of person who could go sit outside for a couple of minutes and come back with “Ode to a Nightingale.”
I take a bus to Islington just because it was mentioned in the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. I see a bar called “The World’s End” and think about the restaurant at the end of the universe, and how I once wrote a song called “Worlds End,” though without the apostrophe, because it was meant to be a short sentence.
I go into what looks to me like a traditional English pub and order fish and chips and drink beer. There’s a World Cup game on, but where I’ve chosen to sit I can’t see the TV, so I read the Evening Standard instead. I later learn that this pub is part of a chain of identical bars all owned by the same company, which is disappointing but unsurprising.
With two other Americans staying at the hostel, I watch the two episodes of Friends where they go to London. I comment that I haven’t heard anyone actually say “bloody.” They have.
At the end of one long day spent exploring the city alone, I think: “This has been the best day of my life and I will always remember that.”
I go into a gift shop outside Buckingham Palace and imagine what Morrissey would think of it. I pick up a book about the succession of Kings and Queens and try to get it straight in my mind. That fact will be my souvenir, my proof that I was here. I can never remember the order of the kings between Victoria and Elizabeth - does it go Edward, George, Edward, or the other way around? And where does Queen Anne fit into it all? I know it doesn’t matter at all, but I want to know, the same way I have memorized the order of American presidents. I use those facts to make up for not knowing anything substantial about most of them. I have bought into the superficial theory of knowledge that I know the education system encourages (spelling bees, Jeopardy, multiple-choice tests whether standardized or not), which most of the time I fight against.
I sit on the steps outside the hostel one morning before breakfast and write in my notebook. A man comes by, sweeping the streets, and I am struck by a sense of my privilege and wealth. I always feel insecure when I see men working - especially construction workers, and especially when it’s hot out - when I am not. I know that the only reason why I’m not one of them is because I was good at answering multiple-choice questions at school, and I know it's not fair.
I go into four separate bookstores in one day and don’t buy anything at any of them.
I go to Picadilly Circus one night and watch a guy play “Despacito” on cello. I imagine that other audience members think that the instrumentation makes it Serious and Good and Important Music. String instruments are a signifier.
I cross the bridge and see a black woman playing bongos and singing. I give her a pound and then ask if I can record her playing because I want to send it to my mom so that she can show Greg. (We had a conversation not long before we left about how he likes bongos.) She seems to say no, though I can’t really understand her. “It’s not useful,” she says a couple of times, and I move along. I feel really bad about the whole situation, about the idea that I was going to appropriate her like that. A middle-class white guy exploiting the poor black woman, the oldest story in the world. But at least I asked. At least when she said no I respected it, I reassure myself.
I notice they call it “take away” instead of “take out” and think that this sounds quaint, cute to me. It reminds me of little kids saying “seven take away three” instead of “minus,” like how they will say “times” instead of “multiply.” “You have to times it.” Most of the time, my job, my role is to correct them. But here I can just appreciate the cuteness of it, and that is the nice thing about summer.
I go to the Royal Academy of Music. The woman working there is a bit too eager to perform her role as guide and fount of information and shopkeeper, and that makes me uncomfortable. I learn from a giant timeline on the wall that George IV (the former Regent, under that “dying and despised king” (who wrote that line? I can’t remember, but I do remember from a Jeopardy question that it was during this era that they wouldn’t perform King Lear, and I think about my country’s own tyrannical and addled leader) was a great patron of the arts. I go up to the second floor, where there is an exhibit of old string instruments. I pick up a ukelele hanging on the wall, and play something simple and beautiful, one of those chord progressions that are so close to my heart. I’ve never owned a ukelele myself, but I always play them when they’re around.
As I step outside, there is rap music blaring from a car, and I love the contrast, the juxtaposition of it. The image sets me off on a pleasantly philosophical train of thought. Something about multiculturalism and relativism and comparing “apples to oranges.” I write my insight down, later, on a piece of paper ripped out of the notebook that I got back home at a school fundraiser sponsored by Ford, where you would test-drive a Ford vehicle and then rate your experience one-through-ten, and the local student council would get twenty dollars, and where they had complimentary notebooks and pens. (The first thing I wrote in that notebook was about how I hated Henry Ford, but I liked the idea of a notebook with a personal tie like that.)
In Euston Square, they put out the Evening Standard and people grab copies as they walk by, and this too seems quaint in the way that only city-life can, and I grab one too. As casually as I possibly can, as if I do it every day on my way home from work. The cover announces that opposite-sex couples can now choose civil unions over marriage. I think of that part of some Virginia Woolf book (The Years, maybe, which I make a mental note I need to reread at some point) where the death of some king is announced in the streets.
I don’t go to the British Museum, for two reasons. One: It feels like supporting neo-imperialism. (There is an exhibit, somewhere in the city, on “Splendors of the Sub-Continent,” which makes me think the same thing. It may be at Buckingham Palace.) Two: It is too big and I know I will never see it all, and museums are not set up for human beings anyway. Ender Wiggin felt the same thing when he walked on a planet built by an alien race. I feel the same way when I listen to an algorithm-created playlist. It’s not the same as a mixtape.
I don’t go to Windsor Castle, either, but only because it is too far away. I did love The Crown, after all. Nor do I go to Stonehenge, or Oxford, or half of the other places I had planned to go, because London alone is enough. Hell, Hyde Park is enough for a lifetime, I swear one day walking through it, and actually believe it.
I go to Saint Paul’s Cathedral but I don’t go inside because you have to pay and that makes me think about Martin Luther. Instead, I get a coffee from Starbucks and sit in the yard outside the church and watch the people, and pretend that it means something. (In Starbucks, they are playing a jazz song that I recognize from my jazz days.)
But I do go to the British Library (because libraries are free and public), where I see a bunch of old writing that I will never remember. The Beatles, Shakespeare, Davinci, one of the Brontes, the Gutenberg Bible - all sitting right next to each other. Ripped out of context, placed on display. Everything we take seriously as a culture. Everything that kids will grow up feeling like they are supposed to know better and love better than they really do. (I know one day - if that day has not already arrived - Harry Potter will join them, and that idea makes me feel sad and old. To see something you love become an imposition upon the next generation.)
As I leave that room, I am enlisted in the research of a student at some college or other. We sit across from each other at the library cafe, and I sign a bunch of very formal, official-looking papers, assuring me of my anonymity. I mostly just rant about my problems with museums. She asks me if more context, more narrative would help, and I think no but say maybe. She asks me some questions that I have to answer with a number between one and five. I tell her I plan on visiting Bloomsbury because I love Virginia Woolf.
In Bloomsbury, I find myself wishing that I had a community of artists and creatives and bohemians around me where I live, that I wasn’t a teacher, an authority figure, back in my regular life. I find the statue of Virginia Woolf. I walk around Tavistock Square, where she first conceived of To The Lighthouse. I never find the house where she and Leonard lived in that area, though I do see where John Maynard Keynes lived. It makes me feel like I ought to know more about him and what he believed. All I know is the one-sentence summary: the government should intervene in economics. But maybe that’s enough.
Certainly, my superficial, incomplete, spotty knowledge of things always seems to be enough to get me by. But sometimes I marvel at how I manage to get through life, knowing so little about anything. I can’t even seem to remember the order of the kings and queens (is it sexist to say “kings and queens" rather than "queens and kings," that it sounds more natural that way?) and it was only a couple hours ago that I had it more-or-less straight. I ought to look that up again when I get back.
I lie on the floor of the hostel lounge in a half-performance of idleness and exhaustion, next to a large black guy who seems to be actually sleeping, while everyone else watches some soccer match. I look up the order of monarchs now that I have Wifi. Now I’ve finally got it. Somehow I end up on Facebook, and somehow I end up scrolling through the events section. There are a million different cool-sounding things going on tonight, my last night in London, and I feel like I’ve got to attend them all. Pub crawls, themed parties, live music. I should be drinking; I should be meeting random people; I should be living it up.
But then I check Twitter, too, and I read a bunch of shit that I don’t care about. But the last thing I happen to see are some lyrics from Drake’s new song, I guess, where he talks about this girl he knew who went to Rome and just posted pictures for people back home instead of enjoying it. And I am reminded of how London is Rome for me. And I realize why I am really here: to sit and read books in the park and pretend I am a character in a Virginia Woolf novel. So I go to St. James Park yet again, and as it is getting dark, I read some more of Call Me By Your Name. I half-want someone to start a conversation about it. Or at least I want confirmation that they notice what book I am reading, that other people are as perpetually curious about the literary predilections of strangers as I am.
For dinner, I go to Byron Burgers, because I like Byron and I like burgers, and order something extremely American because I am feeling the tiniest bit homesick. I jot down some miscellaneous thoughts in my notebook, and keep writing even after my food has arrived, and pretend that that says something about me. (I remember when my friends and I were seniors in high school, on our chorus trip to New York City, and we had three hours to spend at the Met and eat lunch, and we swore we were going to spend the whole time looking at art instead of eating, because that was the sort of people we were. Of course, we caved.)
I eat lunch at an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad-buffet at the second floor of Victoria station, and learn that Anthony Kennedy is retiring from the Supreme Court.
I go to Abbey Road even though I don’t really like the Beatles that much, because it’s so iconic. I see two people nearly get hit by cars while posing for pictures on the crosswalk, which is really just a regular crosswalk. Or it was. Or it could be.
I listen to a Taylor Swift album on the bus to the John Keats house in Hampstead. (The street I grew up on was Shelley, and there was one nearby called Keats. The main road you take to get to our little neighborhood was Hampstead Road.) But Camden is bustling, so I get off there and walk the rest of the way. In the Keats house, I read random lines of his poetry, hoping that one of them will stick, so that I will always remember that I read it in his house. I marvel at the fact that he was younger than me when he died. I need to write something, I think for the millionth time. I wish I was the type of person who could go sit outside for a couple of minutes and come back with “Ode to a Nightingale.”
I take a bus to Islington just because it was mentioned in the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. I see a bar called “The World’s End” and think about the restaurant at the end of the universe, and how I once wrote a song called “Worlds End,” though without the apostrophe, because it was meant to be a short sentence.
I go into what looks to me like a traditional English pub and order fish and chips and drink beer. There’s a World Cup game on, but where I’ve chosen to sit I can’t see the TV, so I read the Evening Standard instead. I later learn that this pub is part of a chain of identical bars all owned by the same company, which is disappointing but unsurprising.
With two other Americans staying at the hostel, I watch the two episodes of Friends where they go to London. I comment that I haven’t heard anyone actually say “bloody.” They have.
At the end of one long day spent exploring the city alone, I think: “This has been the best day of my life and I will always remember that.”
I go into a gift shop outside Buckingham Palace and imagine what Morrissey would think of it. I pick up a book about the succession of Kings and Queens and try to get it straight in my mind. That fact will be my souvenir, my proof that I was here. I can never remember the order of the kings between Victoria and Elizabeth - does it go Edward, George, Edward, or the other way around? And where does Queen Anne fit into it all? I know it doesn’t matter at all, but I want to know, the same way I have memorized the order of American presidents. I use those facts to make up for not knowing anything substantial about most of them. I have bought into the superficial theory of knowledge that I know the education system encourages (spelling bees, Jeopardy, multiple-choice tests whether standardized or not), which most of the time I fight against.
I sit on the steps outside the hostel one morning before breakfast and write in my notebook. A man comes by, sweeping the streets, and I am struck by a sense of my privilege and wealth. I always feel insecure when I see men working - especially construction workers, and especially when it’s hot out - when I am not. I know that the only reason why I’m not one of them is because I was good at answering multiple-choice questions at school, and I know it's not fair.
I go into four separate bookstores in one day and don’t buy anything at any of them.
I go to Picadilly Circus one night and watch a guy play “Despacito” on cello. I imagine that other audience members think that the instrumentation makes it Serious and Good and Important Music. String instruments are a signifier.
I cross the bridge and see a black woman playing bongos and singing. I give her a pound and then ask if I can record her playing because I want to send it to my mom so that she can show Greg. (We had a conversation not long before we left about how he likes bongos.) She seems to say no, though I can’t really understand her. “It’s not useful,” she says a couple of times, and I move along. I feel really bad about the whole situation, about the idea that I was going to appropriate her like that. A middle-class white guy exploiting the poor black woman, the oldest story in the world. But at least I asked. At least when she said no I respected it, I reassure myself.
I notice they call it “take away” instead of “take out” and think that this sounds quaint, cute to me. It reminds me of little kids saying “seven take away three” instead of “minus,” like how they will say “times” instead of “multiply.” “You have to times it.” Most of the time, my job, my role is to correct them. But here I can just appreciate the cuteness of it, and that is the nice thing about summer.
I go to the Royal Academy of Music. The woman working there is a bit too eager to perform her role as guide and fount of information and shopkeeper, and that makes me uncomfortable. I learn from a giant timeline on the wall that George IV (the former Regent, under that “dying and despised king” (who wrote that line? I can’t remember, but I do remember from a Jeopardy question that it was during this era that they wouldn’t perform King Lear, and I think about my country’s own tyrannical and addled leader) was a great patron of the arts. I go up to the second floor, where there is an exhibit of old string instruments. I pick up a ukelele hanging on the wall, and play something simple and beautiful, one of those chord progressions that are so close to my heart. I’ve never owned a ukelele myself, but I always play them when they’re around.
As I step outside, there is rap music blaring from a car, and I love the contrast, the juxtaposition of it. The image sets me off on a pleasantly philosophical train of thought. Something about multiculturalism and relativism and comparing “apples to oranges.” I write my insight down, later, on a piece of paper ripped out of the notebook that I got back home at a school fundraiser sponsored by Ford, where you would test-drive a Ford vehicle and then rate your experience one-through-ten, and the local student council would get twenty dollars, and where they had complimentary notebooks and pens. (The first thing I wrote in that notebook was about how I hated Henry Ford, but I liked the idea of a notebook with a personal tie like that.)
In Euston Square, they put out the Evening Standard and people grab copies as they walk by, and this too seems quaint in the way that only city-life can, and I grab one too. As casually as I possibly can, as if I do it every day on my way home from work. The cover announces that opposite-sex couples can now choose civil unions over marriage. I think of that part of some Virginia Woolf book (The Years, maybe, which I make a mental note I need to reread at some point) where the death of some king is announced in the streets.
I don’t go to the British Museum, for two reasons. One: It feels like supporting neo-imperialism. (There is an exhibit, somewhere in the city, on “Splendors of the Sub-Continent,” which makes me think the same thing. It may be at Buckingham Palace.) Two: It is too big and I know I will never see it all, and museums are not set up for human beings anyway. Ender Wiggin felt the same thing when he walked on a planet built by an alien race. I feel the same way when I listen to an algorithm-created playlist. It’s not the same as a mixtape.
I don’t go to Windsor Castle, either, but only because it is too far away. I did love The Crown, after all. Nor do I go to Stonehenge, or Oxford, or half of the other places I had planned to go, because London alone is enough. Hell, Hyde Park is enough for a lifetime, I swear one day walking through it, and actually believe it.
I go to Saint Paul’s Cathedral but I don’t go inside because you have to pay and that makes me think about Martin Luther. Instead, I get a coffee from Starbucks and sit in the yard outside the church and watch the people, and pretend that it means something. (In Starbucks, they are playing a jazz song that I recognize from my jazz days.)
But I do go to the British Library (because libraries are free and public), where I see a bunch of old writing that I will never remember. The Beatles, Shakespeare, Davinci, one of the Brontes, the Gutenberg Bible - all sitting right next to each other. Ripped out of context, placed on display. Everything we take seriously as a culture. Everything that kids will grow up feeling like they are supposed to know better and love better than they really do. (I know one day - if that day has not already arrived - Harry Potter will join them, and that idea makes me feel sad and old. To see something you love become an imposition upon the next generation.)
As I leave that room, I am enlisted in the research of a student at some college or other. We sit across from each other at the library cafe, and I sign a bunch of very formal, official-looking papers, assuring me of my anonymity. I mostly just rant about my problems with museums. She asks me if more context, more narrative would help, and I think no but say maybe. She asks me some questions that I have to answer with a number between one and five. I tell her I plan on visiting Bloomsbury because I love Virginia Woolf.
In Bloomsbury, I find myself wishing that I had a community of artists and creatives and bohemians around me where I live, that I wasn’t a teacher, an authority figure, back in my regular life. I find the statue of Virginia Woolf. I walk around Tavistock Square, where she first conceived of To The Lighthouse. I never find the house where she and Leonard lived in that area, though I do see where John Maynard Keynes lived. It makes me feel like I ought to know more about him and what he believed. All I know is the one-sentence summary: the government should intervene in economics. But maybe that’s enough.
Certainly, my superficial, incomplete, spotty knowledge of things always seems to be enough to get me by. But sometimes I marvel at how I manage to get through life, knowing so little about anything. I can’t even seem to remember the order of the kings and queens (is it sexist to say “kings and queens" rather than "queens and kings," that it sounds more natural that way?) and it was only a couple hours ago that I had it more-or-less straight. I ought to look that up again when I get back.
I lie on the floor of the hostel lounge in a half-performance of idleness and exhaustion, next to a large black guy who seems to be actually sleeping, while everyone else watches some soccer match. I look up the order of monarchs now that I have Wifi. Now I’ve finally got it. Somehow I end up on Facebook, and somehow I end up scrolling through the events section. There are a million different cool-sounding things going on tonight, my last night in London, and I feel like I’ve got to attend them all. Pub crawls, themed parties, live music. I should be drinking; I should be meeting random people; I should be living it up.
But then I check Twitter, too, and I read a bunch of shit that I don’t care about. But the last thing I happen to see are some lyrics from Drake’s new song, I guess, where he talks about this girl he knew who went to Rome and just posted pictures for people back home instead of enjoying it. And I am reminded of how London is Rome for me. And I realize why I am really here: to sit and read books in the park and pretend I am a character in a Virginia Woolf novel. So I go to St. James Park yet again, and as it is getting dark, I read some more of Call Me By Your Name. I half-want someone to start a conversation about it. Or at least I want confirmation that they notice what book I am reading, that other people are as perpetually curious about the literary predilections of strangers as I am.
For dinner, I go to Byron Burgers, because I like Byron and I like burgers, and order something extremely American because I am feeling the tiniest bit homesick. I jot down some miscellaneous thoughts in my notebook, and keep writing even after my food has arrived, and pretend that that says something about me. (I remember when my friends and I were seniors in high school, on our chorus trip to New York City, and we had three hours to spend at the Met and eat lunch, and we swore we were going to spend the whole time looking at art instead of eating, because that was the sort of people we were. Of course, we caved.)
Sunday morning, I check out of the hostel where I have been staying and head to Cambridge. I order a “traditional English breakfast” at a pub (another one of that same ubiquitous chain of them), and read the last couple pages of Call Me By Your Name.
My larger piece
of luggage lost a wheel at some point, so I have to alternate between
carrying it (it is quite heavy) and dragging it (which tears up the bottom of
it.)
The train to Cambridge leaves King's Cross station at 10:41 AM, which is a pleasantly random-sounding time. The people boarding right before me are a red-haired family, and yet again I think of Harry Potter. I get on Twitter and post about it, concluding with a semi-ironic hashtag: #Magicisreal.